Bonny Doon Syrah, Le Pousseur, Central Coast, 2003
La syrah the French say, employing the feminine article. Just goes to show how profoundly runs their urbanity, their savoir du monde. True syrah (typique the french say) is deeply and elementally feminine, no matter what the show offy, unctuously unguented (careful of the oil-slick) Muscle Beach shiraz-mongers might claim. Proper syrah is perfumed elegance; it's power is its ability to enchant, to captivate, rather then to overpower. One is disarmed by its apparent freshness, its strangeness. Like Borges' Zahir, syrah makes an incredible impression. One will wander the world till the end of one's days with its sublime and haunting fragrance gradually displacing all thoughts and memories, including the knowledge of one's own name.